Dinner was at the Kadı Lokantası, where the discriminating diner can find cheap and delicious cafeteria-style food. Yum. The sign on the kitchen door read “You are able to visit our kitchen.” I declined.
Here is the menu. It’s ok, I don’t know what every one of these things is, either. One of the most expensive items on the menu is the Hünkar Beğendi (lamb stew over roasted eggplant puree). It is 7.20 TL or about $3.25 US. A large chunk of bread is the equivalent of about 12 cents. Added bonus, it’s delicious.
This is strange almost-melody was being played on a melodica by a beggar girl. She was parked on a piece of cardboard on the street repeating these few notes, ignored by the passers-by. Aside from the sound she was making, she was disconnected from her environment (it was way past her bedtime).
As long as I am staying in Kadıköy (another week, or so), the audio selections will likely be coming from the market area. I came across this trumpet player last night. The previous tune he played was the Mexican favorite “La Cucaracha,” which, for me, caused a kind of a cultural cognitive dissonance. La Cucaracha? Where am I?
This is the last bit of the evening call to prayer as heard from the Kadıköy market. I am fairly sure it came from the Osman Ağa Camii (mosque). I was on Üzellik Sokak (street) when I heard this. At the north end of the street, there are lots of shoe sellers. The street narrows quite a bit until you feel like you are in a long, narrow shoe store. But there are people walking through the shoe store who are not buying shoes. Shortly, you dump out onto on a busy city thoroughfare. The mosque is at the northeast end of the market area (the link above is a map).
More to find at the Kadıköy market. Here’s a pile of fresh anchovies (hamsi), for example.
This next one is an odd-looking piscatorial fellow, don’t you think? The fish seller told me the name, but I was too busy struggling with conversational Turkish that I did not write it down. He said that they are used to make soup. I guess it’s best not to look at this one as you eat it.
These are called dil (“deel”). Dil means tongue in Turkish. Also language. Tonguefish, anyone?
I have no idea what this midday drums’n’horn event was all about. It came from around the corner somewhere, hard to tell exactly where with the streets at odd angles and the sound bouncing around as it did. You are probably wondering why I did not go take a look? Sometimes mystery is a good thing.
I was a little hungry tonight, so I walked a few blocks to what might be the equivalent of a convenience store in the states. There were plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables out front, but at inflated prices (like everything else in the store). These figs were selling at 9,90 Turkish lira per kilogram as compared to the 7TL in the day market a few blocks in the other direction. I bought a half a dozen large, fresh figs, even at this price. These six figs (about a pound) cost roughly $2.60 U.S. instead of the $1.85 I would have paid during the day. Fresh figs. Yum. They looked pretty good to me, in spite of the florescent lighting.
Live restaurant music as heard from the evening streets in the Kadıköy market area. This is a very noisy environment, with all kinds of eateries open to the street and throngs of Istanbullus passing by. As this clip fades out, you can hear the competition of recorded music from a restaurant next door. Kadıköy is on the Asian side of Istanbul.
Haydarpaşa Garı is in Kadıköy, on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. By Istanbul standards, it is practically brand new, as it was completed in 1909. There are no trains running from this station while they construct a high-speed railway between Istanbul and Ankara. This shot is from the interior of the main building.